A sip of a sake made with brown rice that tasted more like a cider was my sake epiphany moment. That’s when I knew that there was a whole world of flavour out there to be discovered. The variety, purity, versatility, complexity and depth continued to surprise me and kept me coming back for more. This experience eventually led me to the people who craft this centuries-old drink, and with it, the discovery of their immense dedication and expertise, built within a strong tradition and passionate community. Sake's variety and complexity are a direct result of their challenges and triumphs, and sake's story is their story.

I - RICE - A NATIONAL TREASURE

It's nearly impossible to discuss sake, or even Japanese society, without talking about rice. The cultivation of rice and the rituals of praying for an auspicious harvest go back over 3,000 years and are still practiced today. The Japanese god Inari is the protector of rice, and his shrines feature rows of torii—most famous the Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto.

Rice is so entrenched in Japanese society that the word for rice, gohan, also means "meal," and the Chinese character for rice paddy is often used in family names.

The square, wooden drinking vessel (masu) that's associated with sake was originally used to measure rice. One thousand rice-filled masu is called a koku, which was considered sufficient to feed one person for a year. Koku is still the unit of measure for rice and sake to this day.

Rice has been an integral part of the Japanese economy throughout history. For example, during the Edo period, feudal lords measured their wealth by it, peasants paid taxes with it, and samurais received stipends in it. Rice continues to be a staple food and economic force for modern Japan. Excessive tariffs on rice imports preserve tradition, protect farmers and the people of Japan.

II - HEAVENLY WATER

The common assumption is that rice is a significant part of the terroir of sake, like grapes are to wine. However, since rice is usually sourced from across the country, it’s a difficult argument to make. Water, on the other hand, is rarely transported and comprises 80% of the bottled drink. Although it can play an important role in the expression of a sake, ultimately the brewer has a number of tools to steer the fermentation in a preferred direction.

Miyamizu, which literally means “heavenly water,” became renowned as fine sake brewing water sourced in the Nada area. The high quality of this water was known as far back as the 15th century, but it wasn’t until the 19th century that it got wider recognition and the name. 

Yamamura Tazaemon, a brewery owner, realised that sake from one location was consistently superior, regardless of the rice or brewers involved. He suspected the water was the key, and he proved his theory by transporting the water to a different brewery and creating surprisingly high-quality sake. Sake from this area became a sensation, and other breweries flocked there to benefit from the water as well as the convenient shipping location to Edo. Even water sellers emerged selling this natural well water for sake producers who wanted a piece of the action.

III - SAKE ORIGINS

With rice being such a fundamental part of Japanese society going back centuries, it’s not surprising that they created a drink out of it. Unfortunately, the exact origins of sake have been lost to time, but folklore has it that some farmers got a little intoxicated after having some rice pudding contaminated with wild yeast. 

Sake appears in traditional mythology, such as the famous tale of Susanoo, who saved a beautiful lady from the clutches of an eight-headed and eight-tailed serpent by getting it drunk with sake before slaying it.

The legends also say that virgin girls were employed exclusively to chew rice or millet. Their saliva would convert the starch to sugar, and then the airborne yeast would do the rest. This was termed kuchikami no sake, meaning chewing-in-the-mouth sake, and it was later called bijinshu, or beautiful woman sake. The process of making it was ritualised to the point that these virgins were considered holy mediums. Eventually, the magic koji mould, technically known as Aspergillus oryzae, found its way into the world of sake and the virgins were given a break.

Historical references indicate that alcohol was a firm part of Japanese life and religion by the third century. Chinese envoys from this time—the first foreigners to record their observations of Japan—wrote that, “They are much given to strong drink.” 

IV - CEREMONY & RITUAL

The connection between sake and ceremonial use is heavily intertwined. The Japanese Imperial Court created a brewing department in the 7th century to make sake specifically for ceremonial use. It was used as an offering to the gods, but maybe the emperor secretly had some too.

Ceremonies to mark significant events often include the breaking open of sake barrels, a 300-year-old tradition started by the fourth Tokugawa shōgun who held it for the first time to celebrate a battle victory.

The connection between sake makers and shrines has always been strong. Throughout history, sake brewing families have provided local shrines with sake to connect people with the gods, and often in return for the privilege, they have been allowed to adopt the name of the shrine for their sake.

Although a relatively modern invention that dates back to the early 20th century, Shinto weddings have incorporated many of the rituals of the past. The bride and groom sip sake three times from three different sized wide-mouthed (sakazuki) cups to seal their commitment to each other. The parents follow this to seal the bond between the families.

The wideness of these sakazuki cups provides a reflective surface, allowing one not only to drink sake, but to see reflections of oneself and others nearby.

Sake infused with medicinal herbs or flowers was, and still is, drunk on New Year’s Day to ward off impurities and misfortune while boosting health, vitality, and happiness.

In northern Japan, there was a tradition of bone liquor, where the bones of a Japanese wolf would be added to unfiltered sake known as doburoku. For Japanese people, the wolf is the god and the guardian of the mountains, so it was used as a lucky charm and a valuable medicine.

V - MONK SAKE & A GOLDEN AGE

Much like their European counterpart's impact on beer and wine, Japanese clergymen made great strides in the development of sake. In the 10th century, monks were the first people who were permitted to brew sake for religious purposes after the imperial court lost its exclusive brewing license. Temples could no longer rely on the imperial court for finances and decided to raise funds by brewing sake. This led to temples becoming places where knowledge was concentrated. Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples were also in a unique position to learn about fermentation when monks and intellectuals shared their knowledge and skills when visiting.

This period saw a golden age of brewing, and the monks developed a drink known as Soboshu or monk sake. This led to the Morohaku method, a clear type of sake. In addition to larger barrels, the monks used a sour fermentation starter and white instead of brown rice; they added rice and water in stages, pressed the sake to separate the solids from the liquid, and pasteurised it―300 years before Louis Pasteur coined the term. The modern sake production process is mostly based on all these developments. Of course, monks were not allowed to taste the fruits of their labor, but who could resist such delicious sake? They would steal themselves a cheeky sip every now and then, using the codeword hanya-to (warm elixir) to conceal their naughty habits from people outside.

The practice of heating sake dates back as early as this period, as confirmed in the ancient Engishiki document which has a listing for ‘charcoal for heating sake.’

Shoryakuji temple in Nara is one of the most famous sake-brewing temples. It is the reason why Nara is considered the birthplace of refined sake. The Bodaimoto fermentation starter method has been recently revived by the collaboration of Shoryakuji temple and a handful of breweries. Every January, they get together at the temple to steam the rice and make the first starter batch.

These days, sake brewing season is usually from October to March, as warmer weather allows unfavourable microbes to spoil batches. However, up until the 16th century, records indicate that brewing was done year-round, depending on the availability of rice.

VI - COMMERCIALISATION

Early efforts to commercialise sake went a bit too well. Everyone ended up getting drunk, leading to a prohibition in 1252. This was short-lived, though, lasting just 50 years, as the government realised the taxes they could collect on sake more than compensated for the after-effects. The commercialisation of sake followed, with an increase in breweries and production growth in Nara, Fushimi in Kyoto, Nada in Hyogo, and Saijo in Hiroshima. These areas had skilful brewers and quality water, which ultimately led to delicious sake. 

Art from this time depicts brewers mashing the rice with long poles. Chants were sung while mashing the rice to measure time, keep rhythm, and create unity in the freezing cold temperatures. Many of these traditions—including singing—have been revived recently.

Although the brewers were creating delicious sake in places like Fushimi and Nada, they still had to transport their sake to the capital—Edo (modern-day Tokyo). According to later sources, brewers realised that sake tasted smoother and mellower after the long boat trip to Edo, which they correctly attributed to the swirling motion.

By the 17th century, sake had shifted entirely from the religious sectors’ confines to civilian artisans. This was also the time that ceramic vessels and flasks for sake caught on with ordinary folk. Within the next century, the toji system was established. Toji means master brewer. They were rice farmers who had no work in the winter months and took up brewing as a form of seasonal work. Guilds were set up to train and manage employment for the toji, and each guild had its own style of brewing. The most famous guilds are still going strong today.

VII - LOOKING BACK, LOOKING FORWARD

Sake may have evolved from a sacred religious offering to a staple of the local izakaya, but remnants of its ritualised past remain. Pouring for yourself is frowned upon, and sake cups have been purposely kept small to encourage interaction—a kind of social lubricant. They say to always accept a pour even if you’ve reached your limit. These small gestures tie this delicious drink to its ceremonial past. But sake is so much more than a vestige of Japanese history or a cultural artefact. It is a living thing with its own story, its own future, which is intimately intertwined with the stories of its makers.

We are truly in another golden era of sake, with a generation of brewers embracing tradition while pushing the limits of what can be achieved from rice, water, yeast, and the magic koji mould. We have breweries popping up outside of Japan, and an appreciation for the drink from a new crowd. But without the stories of the artisans, an integral element of the drink is lost, and that’s why I aim to capture some of the voices of my favourite sake makers in the interview section of Signor Sake. Hope you enjoy them.

Christian x