Falling For You
As the weather cools down in Japan, sake enthusiasts are warming up for the best time of year to drink the national tipple. Autumn is a much-loved season for food and drink in Japan and although sake releases during this time are not legally defined, they are often labelled hiya-oroshi or aki-agari, which are ones typically brewed at the start of the year, pasteurised once and then stored for 6 months to mellow out before getting in drinkers’ hands. Here are some of the best available in Japan right now.
LABEL - FUROSEN HIYAOROSHI
MAKER - UEHARA SHUZO - SHIGA
SPEC - ABV 17% / Tamakae rice milled to 55%
6th generation Isao Uehara is one of a handful of brewers in Japan who skips commercial yeast additions and ferments most of his range naturally. He also uses wooden vats in place of stainless-steel tanks, and an ancient wooden beam pressing method which squeezes the liquid more gently than the conventional way. This is low on aromatics but big on flavour. It has notes of shredded wheat, toasted nuts, caramel and pecan pie. The palate is medium dry but rich and textural.
BUY HERE IN JAPAN:
https://www.imaday.jp/c/nihonsyu/gd13984
LABEL - SOUGEN HIYAOROSHI
MAKER - SOUGEN SHUZO - ISHIKAWA
SPEC - ABV 17% / Hattan-Nishiki rice milled to 55%
The family trace its roots back to the Hatakeyama samurai clan, who built the Nanao Castle located in the middle of the Noto Peninsula. High-ranking samurai warriors, who were allowed to fight on horseback, carried a spear on the battlefield, and the company’s logo is a symbol of the spear and their pride of being a high-ranking samurai clan. On the nose is toasted brown rice, persimmon and soy sauce. It’s medium sweet, full of complexity with big and lingering umami, lots of texture and grip and a touch of matured fruit. Match with hearty dishes like stews and grilled meats.
BUY HERE IN JAPAN:
https://www.isego.shop/shop/shopdetail.html?brandcode=000000004276&search=%BD%A1%B8%BC&sort=
LABEL - KAKUREI HIYAOROSHI
MAKER - AOKI SHUZO - NIIGATA
SPEC - ABV 16% / Yamada-Nishiki rice milled to 55%
Niigata is most famous for tanrei-karakuchi style, meaning “crisp and dry.” Aoki Shuzo brew tanrei-umakuchi, meaning “crisp and tasty” with a focus on bringing out the umami of the rice. Located in Uonuma, one of the snowiest regions in Japan, the brewers of the Echigo Toji guild school have to battle the elements, but benefit from the rich water source and tasty sake. Subdued aromas with butter, macadamia and a touch of candied fruit. On the palate, it’s multi-layered with a voluptuous body and medium sweet.
BUY HERE IN JAPAN:
https://www.isego.shop/shop/shopdetail.html?brandcode=000000002097&search=%C4%E1%CE%F0&sort=
LABEL - MASUMI HIYAOROSHI
MAKER - MIYASAKA JOZO - NAGANO
SPEC - ABV 15% / Miyama-Nishiki milled to 55%
Masumi is best known for its yeast, which was isolated at the brewery by scholars in 1946 and named “number seven.” Getting that recognition is like winning a Noble Prize, and it’s now one of the most used in the industry due to its mellow aroma and reliable fermentation. This was after a difficult period which saw the brewery on the brink of collapse but saved by a talented brewer in the 1920s. On the nose, this has porcini mushroom, butterscotch, and candied fruit. The palate has dominant umami with a touch of coffee bean and caramel. It’s medium dry, well-balanced with a pleasant lingering finish.
BUY HERE IN JAPAN:
https://shopping.kimijimaya.co.jp/view/item/000000005131
LABEL - TAKA FUKAMARI
MAKER - NAGAYAMA HONKE - YAMAGUCHI
SPEC - ABV 15% / Omachi milled to 60%
Taka, meaning “noble arrow” is both the name of the brand and the man behind it. His sakes tend to be earthy, savoury with a pleasant long-lasting acidity on the finish—something traditionally seen as a negative in the industry. The abundant acidity comes from an old-school fermentation starter (kimoto). This autumn version named “fukamari” means profoundness and it certainly has depth to it. It has subdued aromas with crème fraiche, fig, toasted granola and caramelised butter. It’s savoury, medium bodied with solid umami and a fairly long finish.
BUY HERE IN JAPAN:
https://www.isego.shop/shop/shopdetail.html?brandcode=000000002150&search=%B5%AE&sort=
